Going Loco at Los Locos
Stepping into the depths of Los Locos and I’m not quite sure where I’ve ended up. I can see a dancefloor, a bar offering surprise package deals and a rather mysterious looking area in the corner looking suspiciously like a set of DJ decks. I look around and everyone is complacently enjoying dinner. Do I detect that this may be the night before the night after? Or even the other way round?
Settling into mini Mexico and I am confronted by a gluttonously American-sized menu with portions to match. Piquant and bountiful nachos with sour cream, chunky refried beans and fiery jalapenos is a starter large enough to be a main meal – fantastically generous, particularly for Covent Garden.
Los Locos is all about messy eating, kitsch cocktails and losing your inhibitions to the wind when the flashing lights take over and the drinks move from the table to the dancefloor. Treacled, sticky ribs, boisterously burnished chicken wings and chilli-rubbed corn on the cob was a feast for fat fingers, and the chicken quesadilla with its fragrant Mexican rice was enough to line at least five stomachs – certainly what you seem to need for an evening at Los Locos.
So what’s the temptation of eating in a place that you may not remember the name of in the morning? Los Locos seems to embrace this kind of frivolity. Indeed, the cheeky mantra: ‘Nobody’s ugly after 2am’ wholeheartedly rejects the concept of stuffy dining. It’s for party-goers, jovial groups and people with big appetites, literally and figuratively.
We were apparently the ‘literal’ kind and after a tooth-achingly sweet pecan pie, dancing the night away was the last thing on our minds. We left the more committed diners with the sheepish mindset: just plant me in front of the TV on an extremely large sofa.
By Gabriella Patterson.
24–26 Russell Street, WC2B 5HF 020 7379 0220Los Locos v1 from Pocket London TV on Vimeo.
(1 votes, average: 5.00 out of 5)
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